The San Blas islands are a vast archipelago stretching west along Panama’s eastern Caribbean coast, from the Columbian border. These islands are a popular stopover for cruisers planning to go through the canal, a most beautiful, peaceful and unique part of the world. Nowadays the islands, and the nearby mainland, are known as Guna Yala, as they are home to the indigenous Guna Indians, who have the best preserved culture and traditions of all of the South American Indians. The Guna people are a autonomous, and control this part of Panama, both the islands and the associated mainland of dense and mountainous tropical rainforest. The Guna are a matrilineal society, continuing to live in a traditional way. They live simply, often without electricity or running water and rely on fishing and coconut farming for food and trading.
Cruisers choose to arrive either in of 2 locations: the Southernmost part of the region, and check in at the town of Olbadia on the Darien Peninsula. This area is known for its lightning storms and conditions can be tough getting down this way. Legend has it that Columbian drug runners frequent the area and there are no roads into the town. Whilst this gives you the option to drop into some of the less visited islands as you make your way west, it’s also a bit more of a (sometimes windward) schlep to make your way along the island chain. The other option is to arrive into the island of Porvenir, on the western end of the island group. This is close to the more popular and visited islands and cays, as well as being closer to Shelter Bay the take off point for the Panama Canal passage. The downside of this option is the need to use an agent to get a cruising permit as these are not available at the check in port. We chose the second option as this would give us more time in the idyllic north-western islands, and less time on the move.
Santa Marta to Porvenir
Having left Martinique for the 3 day journey to Los Roques on my birthday last year, it is appropriate that we leave Santa Marta for the 304nm, 2.5 day journey to Porvenir, Panama on Keith’s birthday (2 January, 2023). Got away around 9:20am, after SV Cinnamon and before WildThing2, both are going via Cartagena so we can only share the first part of the journey along the Columbian Coast. Once we got out into the breeze line we decided to put the kite up. Had 2+m following seas, with big rogues wave4s every now and again and wind in the low 20s with the occasional gust going higher. I was feeling a bit queezy after a month in a marina, so I took half a Travacalm, which of course made me tired, so I had to have a nap. In the early afternoon I woke to a big swell pushing us along nicely and came up to the helm to a surreal scene. ITIKI was completely surrounded by rough, dirty brown water. Had Keith taken a wrong turn and ended up in the Amazon? No - we were passing Baranquilla and the mouth of the infamous Magdalena River which is well known for spewing its muddy, brown water and debris into the sea. Fortunately we did not see too much in the way of large flotsam which after heavy rains can apparently include large tree trunks and the odd cow! We continued on through the night with the kite up and it was easy to manage. Keith had about 4 hours of strongish winds and high seas during his watch and got max speed for our journey of 15.7kts surfing down a wave. It had backed off by the time I came on which was just as well.Santa Marta to Porvenir Having left Martinique for the 3 day journey to Los Roques on my birthday last year, it is appropriate that we leave Santa Marta for the 304nm, 2.5 day journey to Porvenir, Panama on Keith’s birthday (2 January, 2023). Got away around 9:20am, after SV Cinnamon and before WildThing2, both are going via Cartagena so we can only share the first part of the journey along the Columbian Coast. Once we got out into the breeze line we decided to put the kite up. Had 2+m following seas, with big rogues waves every now and again and wind in the low 20s with the occasional gust going higher. I was feeling a bit queezy after a month in a marina, so I took half a Travacalm, which of course made me tired, so I had to have a nap. In the early afternoon I woke to a big swell pushing us along nicely and came up to the helm to a surreal scene. ITIKI was completely surrounded by rough, dirty brown water. Had Keith taken a wrong turn and ended up in the Amazon? No - we were passing Baranquilla and the mouth of the infamous Magdalena River which is well known for spewing its muddy, brown water and debris into the sea. Fortunately we did not see too much in the way of large flotsam which after heavy rains can apparently include large tree trunks and the odd cow! We continued on through the night with the kite up and it was easy to manage. Keith had about 4 hours of strongish winds and high seas during his watch and got max speed for our journey of 15.7kts surfing down a wave. It had backed off by the time I came on which was just as well.
The kite is doing great as it just looks after itself, but we can’t reef it or slow down without changing sails, so our arrival is set to be in the middle of the night! About 12 hours out the wind has settled into +/-15kts and seas are nice and flat. We come into the anchorage around 1am on Friday 4th. Fortunately there is good moonlight and there are 2 other boats here. We drop anchor to the west of the runway and after a tot of rum, hit the hay.
Checking in
We wake to the sound of a small breaking wave not far from the back of the boat, where there is a small reef. Not a problem but we would not have wanted to have put any more chain out! SV Voodoo, 70’ mono, arrive around 9am and anchor to the east of us. They left Santa Marta a few hours after us and decided to slow down to arrive in daylight. We have a quick chat over the radio and then head ashore to check in. The process is easy and used as a training session going on - all available personnel look on as the head honcho gives a running commentary in Spanish. Passports stamped and police checks done we have our pictures taken with the anchorage in the background. Then we go to the Congresso to get the local Guna Yala anchoring permit (US$60). The Congresso is the Guna Yala grand council who govern the area via a series of local councils. Before heading off we, took the dinghy over to a nearby small island to get a local SIM card so we could get internet connection.
When we came to lift the anchor the bridle had wrapped itself 3 times around and around the chain – it was so bad I couldn’t get it into the anchor well. It takes a bit of manoeuvring as Keith has to unravel it while I keep the boat head to wind. Voodoo get away before us, wondering what on earth we are doing, and we meet them again over at Chimiche Cays anchorage. Quite a few boats here but somehow there is room. What a lovely place. We have a BBQ and an early night.
Highlights of Guna Yala
We spent 2 ½ weeks working our way clockwise around the set of cays at the western end of Guna Yala. Each of the cays is a little different but generally each of them consisted of a small group of sand islets, stabilised by the roots of the thick covering of coconut trees, and protected by fringing reefs. A little like Tobago Cays in the eastern Caribbean, but there are lots of them. The sand islands are low but the dense stands of tall trees provide good protection from the prevailing winds and the leeward sides can be well sheltered anchorages, particularly on the larger islands. The reefs provide good protection from the swell and the waters abound with sea life, corals and tropical fish, reef sharks and turtles. Sadly as sea levels rise these cays will begin to disappear.
Chilling out
As we move from island to island and cay to cay, we continue to marvel at the stunning scenery. White sand beaches, coconut trees, crystal clear water and fresh fish. The water colour is the most amazing turquoise colour. Not much to do but enjoy swimming and SUPping – although we are down one paddle board as Keith’s has a terminal leak. There are also plenty of reefs to go snorkelling and we find a variety of colourful coral and lots of tropical fish. We take ITIKI to snorkel at Dog Island Wreck, a small and shallow sunken wreck nearby a beach resort. Here we find some colourful coral on the walls of the wreck and loads of tropical fish darting in and out. It’s cool to be able to see the outline of a ship under all that sea-life. Swimming the anchor at Coco Banderras anchorage I looked around saw a reef shark about my size swimming along the shoreline in shallow water. Hmmm – I know they are not dangerous but that shape, and the music… I swim quite quickly back to the boat with as little splashing as possible. Regular supply boats come into the anchorages so it is possible to buy fresh fruit and vegetables to keep us going. That means we don’t have to rush off to the mainland to find a town with a shop. Fresh fish and lobster are also on offer from the local fishermen.
It was lovely to catch up with fellow cruisers from the Santa Marta Christmas crew at some of our stops - just relax, have fun, share drinks on the beach and plenty of laughs. Everyone is slowly making their way west as we all head towards the Pacific. Mai Tai has arrived from Aruba and have spent a few days here already before we catchup. We do some planning and decide to head up to Shelter Bay together and get measured, and aim to go through the Panama Canal together. That will be a really fun and cool experience to share – it also turns out to be a very fortuitous decision for us, but you will have to wait for that blog…
Living the Guna life
The Guna people we have encountered on the islands are living a very simple and traditional life. They have long resisted hispanic integration, maintaining their traditional dress and lifestyle. Some islands are uninhabited but on others there may be 1-2 families, living in small huts made of coconut fronds. Cooking is done on gas or fires made with coconut husks and fish and coconuts feature heavily on the menu. There is no electricity or running water, not even catchment from the huts. We see fishermen out catching tonight’s dinner and are regularly offered freshly caught fish and lobster, and sometimes the local bread. The Guna boats are amazing, hand-made dugout canoes which can fit 4-5 people at a squeeze. They seem very stable considering they have no keel. They can be paddled by one person, but we have also seen some with small sails which are steered using the paddle. They travel significant distances in the canoes, including from the mainland to the islands to sell their wares including the local handicraft, Molas. The folk we have met are always smiling and seem very healthy and happy. They regularly come by to ask for water and if we can fill a few of their 5L plastic water bottles from our tanks. I was a little confused the first time I was handed a plastic shopping bag and told something in Spanish that ended in “tardes” (later or afternoon). Looking inside I found a mobile phone with a charger and blank screen – aaahhh right. OK, they have no way to charge their phones so hand them over to cruisers to charge and collect later.
We learn that the coconut was once the only currency that the Guna used, and was highly prized for trading with the Columbian boats. Even now each coconut tree is owned by a family and everyone knows whose coconuts are whose. It is important not to help yourself to coconuts, even ones on the ground, as they belong to someone. The Guna are also a very closed society and it is not permitted for outsiders to own property or run businesses here. Their society is matrilineal with women having a significant role in decision making for the community. Marriage outside of the Guna tribes is also not allowed, and could result in ostracism. As a result the relatively small Guna population are all very closely related and albino Gunas are not uncommon. It’s a harsh environment if you have no pigment in your skin, and we did meet one young fellow who scored from us a pair of our sunglasses and a cap for protection. The Guna are also very accepting of transgender people and it is not uncommon for men to dress in women's clothes and wear make up etc. People are allowed to express themselves as they please. We meet one transgender Mola Maker (Mola Lisa) who is very well known in this area and makes beautiful Molas and some funky accessories.
My what a lovely Mola
What is a Mola? Mola are the Guna’s fabric handicraft. They are fabric panels about the size of a laptop with multiple layers of colourful fabric sewn together. Patterns are formed by cutting out and stitching, all by hand. There are abstract patterns, which are more traditional ones, as well as animal and birds more popular with tourists. The Guna ladies wear them as part of their traditional costumes, with matching panels added to the back and front of their shirts. The ladies also wear long strings of tiny glass beads wrapped around the full length of their calves. These are not just for special occasions but worn on a daily basis around the house. At our first anchorage at Chichime Cays we get a visit from one of the most famous and persistent master Mola makers, Venancio. He and his offsider politely invite themselves aboard and bring a 15 gallon drum filled with Molas!! Before I know it our cockpit is covered with dozens of brightly covered Molas. They really are quite beautiful and very well made. Some of the more complex ones must take weeks to make and are priced accordingly. Its so hard to choose, but I end up with 4 by a process of elimination. Venancio is a little disappointed and tells me other cruisers by 10 or more! Well at his prices and at our first island I will stick with my 4 and spread the love to other vendors.
One morning at Coco Banderras – a word of caution
It can be challenging navigating around these waters. Whilst there is plenty of depth between the island groups or cays, within the cays there are shallows and sandbanks, the odd wreck and coral head. Approaching an anchorage, care is needed and our pilot book is worth its weight in gold. Sometimes it looks like you can make a b-line for an anchorage but end up having to skirt around it, taking the scenic route. It’s always important to have someone on lookout when navigating inside the cays and its best to move around between 10am and 2pm when the sun is over head, giving you good visibility.
Quite a strong rain squall came through the anchorage in the morning, with heavy rain and wind up to 25kts. A mono left the anchorage in overcast conditions and was passing the end of one of the small islets but stopped suddenly. Clearly he had cut the corner and had running aground on a reef or sand bank. Keith went over to help, getting drenched in the process as another squall came through. The yacht had smashed their propeller and also lost their main anchor trying to kedge off so they were in a lot of trouble. A Guna fishing boat with an outboard motor came to help and after a while more dinghies joined in the effort. Eventually they were freed but had to be towed with off a flotilla to a new part of the anchorage away from everyone. The Guna were able to dive and retrieved their anchor and as well as their prop, which was in 3 pieces. Amazingly one of the other boats in the anchorage, which was the same design, had a spare prop that fitted perfectly – how lucky was that.
It's always sad to move on but that time inevitably comes. We realise we are very privileged to have visited Guna Yala. With no resorts on the islands and only very basic accommodation on one or two islands, a visit by yacht is really the only way to experience this unique part of the world.
3 Comments
Sarah Dunne
18/4/2023 02:36:08 pm
Soo beautiful - how will you ever settle down to urban life again?!!
Reply
Paul Jameson
18/4/2023 05:04:33 pm
It just gets more and more beautiful.... and interesting. I can't wait for you Panama Canal blog!
Reply
Ann Sweeney
19/4/2023 09:08:00 am
You’re a wiz on that sewing machine you lugged from Sydney!
Reply
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorAfter more than 5 years of (minus time off for Covid) and more than 27,000nm Lynda has finally got the hang of this cruising life Archives
June 2024
Categories |