More-Ish Mo'orea

Society Islands

Well everyone has heard of Tahiti but there are several more, less well known islands that go to make up the Society group of French Polynesia. The Society islands stretch out westward of Tahiti and we plan to visit all of these as we continue our way across the Pacific. The small island of Mo’orea is only 20nm from Tahiti and its towering peaks are clearly visible from the airport anchorage. All of the Society Islands have tall, green mountain peaks, and look similar to the Marquesas in that respect, but unlike the Marquesas each island is completely surrounded by a fringing reef. The anchorages are located inside these reefs, which offer good protection from the swell, as well as some nice snorkeling. Like the Tuamotus we have to enter the reefs via a cut or pass, thankful these are generally not as tide dependant so we can come and go fairly easily.

Heart-shaped or mini Tasmania?

​I heart Mo’orea

Mo’orea is a small, heart-shaped (or even Tassie-shaped) island with several stunning anchorages and lots to do and see. Its high peaks are visible from Tahiti and provide a dramatic backdrop for sunrises and sunsets. A soft blanket of cloud often sits gently on top of this enigmatic island, giving it a bit of a mystical quality. We decide to do a circumnavigation with our special guest, Pam, on board for her second visit to ITIKI. I should mention here that it was our dear friend Pam who is responsible for us meeting, on a fateful Anzac day some 18 years ago. I guess if it wasn't for Pam, we would not be here on ITIKI!
We had already spent a few days in Mo'orea prior to her arrival doing a bit of a reconnaissance, and escaping the airport anchorage for a change of scenery while awaiting some packages.

Beautiful view of Mo'orea from the airport anchorage, Tahiti

The Popular Cook's Bay

Cook's Bay with one of the many pineapple plantations

We enter the reef on the north eastern coast of the island, coming in through the well marked channel. Cooks Bay is a long and deep channel, very sheltered, very popular and with boats swinging in all directions it can be hard to find a spot. Mo’orea is famous for its pineapple farms and several of these are visible from the anchorage. We take a walk along the shore to the pineapple factory, which offers a range of artisan liquors, sadly none for tastings… On the way back we bought some of the small, local pineapples from the roadside vendors. They are super sweet, smell fantastic and are delicious.

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There are quite a few walking trails up into the hills, but they do start to get a little steep and our legs are somewhat out of condition. Keith and I made it to one nearby lookout for spectacular views over Cook's bay. On our return visit, Pam and I tried to make it to the Three Pines lookout, which has a oversized swing, but the last part of the path was too overgrown and we forgot to take our machete… Still we had a lovely walk through the pineapple fields and super views over the back of the bay.

Pineapple fields

There is another reason why Cook's Bay is popular with cruisers, you guessed it! The supermarket! Of course we have to visit, we just can’t help ourselves!! They have a great selection of wine, fresh bread and the local beer is on special! What more could you want?! Keith and I returned to the anchorage and on the way back to ITIKI the couple in SV Carina flagged us down. Looked like they were trying to leave but another monohull was over their chain. We didn’t recall  the mono being there when we went out, but that’s because it wasn’t! Turns out there was nobody onboard and it had dragged halfway across the bay, hit SV Carina, taking out their wind vane steering in the process. So lucky it didn’t hit ITIKI while we were out! We managed to help them get free from the dragging boat but sadly they sustained some damage and it will be difficult to contact the owner.

​A short stop at a short dock

We almost fit on the fuel dock

Its a sad reality but even as a sailing boat we need to burn diesel. Headed over to the Cook's Bay fuel dock, which is tucked into a protected nook on the eastern side of the bay. It was tight, and it is a short dock, but our skipper manoeuvred us expertly alongside and we tied astern and amidships,  with our bow hanging over the end. A few days ago we dropped into the customs office in Papeete to get a piece of paper that allows us duty free fuel. It’s still not cheap but much better than what we have been paying.

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Opunohu Bay

While Mo’orea is protected by a fringing reef, it is not always possible to go from one anchorage to the next inside the reef. This may not be a safe, marked passage or it is just too shallow. We had to exit the reef opposite Cook’s Bay, head west around the outside and enter the reef again opposite Opunohu Bay. Firstly we anchored in the shallow waters near the head of this long, narrow bay and went for a dinghy ride to check out the shoreline and beach we passed on the way in. Its another stunning bay,  surrounded by the majestic, green peaks of Mo'orea. It is super calm and well protected which makes for a good night’s sleep.

ITIKI in Opunohu Bay

​Tikis, sharks and rays

Underwater Tiki

After breakfast we upped anchor and went over to the Tiki garden at the western side of the mouth of Opunohu Bay. Took the dinghy the short distance across to the snorkeling area. There are 8 tikis scattered around on the bottom, and a few curious fish doing a bit of gardening on the sculptures. We continue further west in the dinghy to what is known as Mo’orea’s worst kept secret. We wind our way along a narrow but well marked channel through the reef, past some abandoned, over-water bungalows and across to where we could see several day-tripper boats. The lagoon is shallow and you could practically stand on the bottom. We tied the dinghy to a bouy and jumped in. As advertised there are heaps of sharks and rays swimming around, oblivious to everyone, and so close you could touch them. I expect they are regularly fed. Although the place was heaving with tourists it was still an amazing experience. I swam further afield and saw the incredible sight of some parrot fish doing some sort of mating ritual, or maybe just snogging. Such a treat. Back at ITIKI we upped anchor again and moved across to the beach anchorage at Point Vaipahu, and enjoyed a SUP ashore and walk along the sandy beach. It is busy here and popular with the locals, especially as it’s the weekend, and someone is playing Polynesian music really loudly from their car. It is nice ambience at first but it soon wears thin, as does the frequent jetski traffic going past. Still we can enjoy some time chillin' out and sundowners on the cocktail deck.

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Sharks and Rays

Ha’apiti Five-0

Surf break at Ha'apiti Reef

​Upped anchor mid-morning and headed around to Ha’apiti. Again we have to exit the reef and this time we go all the way around to the west coast of the island. This is a famous surfing area and there are already a few grommets on the south side of the pass, a left-hander. Although the cut is not marked by channel markers the charts are accurate and its easy to find. There are big breaking waves either side which we obviously avoid, and a reasonably wide gap. The lagoon here is huge and the water is amazingly clear and calm inside. We anchor with 4 other boats although there looks like there is another couple of boats anchored further south. We spend the afternoon chilling out and swimming from the boat. 

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One of the cats anchored further south left early this morning and we could watch him go through the gap. Interesting as it is hard to pick where it is from this angle. Looked like he bounced a little on the way out. Our anchorage is really quite picturesque, with the tall peaks behind us and the shallow, blue waters in front of us stretching out towards the reef. We have the constant sound of the surf breaking on the reef.  We go for a dinghy ride early in the morning heading north dodging bommies. We check out the surf spot and there is quite a swell running as we get closer, which is a bit hairy in the dinghy. The surfers are out again and the waves are bigger than yesterday. 

​In the afternoon the wind swings to the west, which is rather unusual. It's quite strong at first, but settles into about 15kts. Coming out of the reef would be pretty challenging now as the entrance faces west - the wind would be pushing the swell into the lagoon so it would be pretty bouncy going out. We decide to stay put and relax on board. 

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Eagle Ray

Lynda & Ray

The wind back's off overnight and in the morning the water is so calm and clear we can see the bottom. We have had sting rays and eagle rays swimming under the boat looking for a feed. The eagle rays are black with white, leopard-like spots, and wide, pointed fins. I decide to jump in and swim with them for a closer look. I thought they would instantly disappear but was delighted to find one just off the back of the boat. Chased him around for a while. They have a snout like the manatee and seem to hoover the sand surface looking for food. This one had a small fish following on behind him waiting for whatever else he stirred up. They are such graceful swimmers, slowly gliding through the water using their fins like wings. I loved swimming with them, chasing them around by the boat following and filming them for a while. 

A bouncy  departure

We headed out of the gap around 8am. Although the westerly had backed off, there was still a fair swell running from the west. I took the GoPro up to the foredeck to capture the excitement. We had some dolphins come towards us out of the surf and they surfed our bow wave for a while. It got pretty bouncy as we passed out of the reef, I hung on tightly to the genoa but got a bit wet as we bounced over the waves. Very exciting, but the sphincter rating was high for the skipper, although you wouldn't know it from the look on his face!

We followed the reef around to the eastern side of the island, watching the breaking waves from behind - amazing and quite a size. The Va’aire Anchorage is nice enough with a small village, and lovely views over Tahiti. In the afternoon we stayed aboard as we had some squalls come through and a fair bit of rain. 

In the morning we had more eagle rays and some small sharks under the boat. Sadly though it was time to leave them and head back to Tahiti. Again it was a little bouncy coming out of the pass, but not quite as bad as yesterday! And all too soon our Mo'orea circumnavigation was complete. It was time to say a sad farewell to our special guest Pam. What an amazing gem of an island, and a fun time. This has to be one of our all time favourites.
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