We used both the RCC pilot and the app Navily to find anchorages and check reviews. Of course gleaning info from fellow cruisers has also been invaluable. Some brief summaries below.
Puerto Benalmádena to Puerto Almerimar
A full day of motoring but we did have some dolphins come and play for a while. Also possibly some small whales or larger type of dolphins. Slower moving and much darker. Water temp is so much warmer here and we are now getting along in swimmers and sarongs. Arrived fairly late and they put us on the end of the dock so no chance to practice med-mooring. A little drama overnight with a thunderstorm and some rain but otherwise an uneventful night. Oh and this has to be the cheapest marina so far!
A full day of motoring but we did have some dolphins come and play for a while. Also possibly some small whales or larger type of dolphins. Slower moving and much darker. Water temp is so much warmer here and we are now getting along in swimmers and sarongs. Arrived fairly late and they put us on the end of the dock so no chance to practice med-mooring. A little drama overnight with a thunderstorm and some rain but otherwise an uneventful night. Oh and this has to be the cheapest marina so far!
La Linea to Puerto Benalmadena
A around point Europa and officially into the Med, finally. Check our progress and stats here. Lightish breezes but on the nose so mostly motoring. Tried a couple of anchorage spots but not too happy, so went into this port for the night. Our first go at "med-mooring" style of berthing. As there are minimal tides in the Med, there are no floating docks, mainly concrete with rusty rings for your stern lines, and lazy lines to run up to the bow. Thankfully the "mariner" was at the dock to help us out with the first one. Another learning experience, as was our attempts to deploy the passerelle! Looks like we won't be going ashore tonight!
A around point Europa and officially into the Med, finally. Check our progress and stats here. Lightish breezes but on the nose so mostly motoring. Tried a couple of anchorage spots but not too happy, so went into this port for the night. Our first go at "med-mooring" style of berthing. As there are minimal tides in the Med, there are no floating docks, mainly concrete with rusty rings for your stern lines, and lazy lines to run up to the bow. Thankfully the "mariner" was at the dock to help us out with the first one. Another learning experience, as was our attempts to deploy the passerelle! Looks like we won't be going ashore tonight!
Cadiz to La Linea (Gibraltar)
A really great run and you will have seen the kite footage on the blog. We held it to the edge of the shipping channel before a spectacularly good, single handed "snuff" by our bowman, Keith (I could almost hear the applause!) The rock really dominates the landscape as it looms. We spent three nights here at La Linea and walked across the boarder to "little Britain" each day, and did the tour of the rock, as well as the british supermarkets. Lots of duty free and cheapest gin on the planet. Will also be refuelling on our way out as diesel is E0.66 per litre.
So many places selling "British Fish and Chips" and warm beer in case you were missing it. Interesting to see the red phone booths and police in bobbies uniforms. Also managed to get our Genset tuned down to 1500rpm/50Hz so the washing machine should be right now. Thanks to Electric Erik, a South African now living on his yacht in La Linea.
A really great run and you will have seen the kite footage on the blog. We held it to the edge of the shipping channel before a spectacularly good, single handed "snuff" by our bowman, Keith (I could almost hear the applause!) The rock really dominates the landscape as it looms. We spent three nights here at La Linea and walked across the boarder to "little Britain" each day, and did the tour of the rock, as well as the british supermarkets. Lots of duty free and cheapest gin on the planet. Will also be refuelling on our way out as diesel is E0.66 per litre.
So many places selling "British Fish and Chips" and warm beer in case you were missing it. Interesting to see the red phone booths and police in bobbies uniforms. Also managed to get our Genset tuned down to 1500rpm/50Hz so the washing machine should be right now. Thanks to Electric Erik, a South African now living on his yacht in La Linea.
Faro to Cadiz
Woke to the sound of an unforecast thunderstorm charging through the anchorage at 20kts about 5:30am. One yacht decided to re-anchor. We waited out the storm and headed out into the breach! Long day, what a ride with the swell from hell. Poor Itiki fell off and smacked into more than her fair share of some nasty waves. Very confused sea and the wind didn't really know what it wanted to do either. So nice to be at anchor finally but still blowing high teens. Passed a monohull (Trilogy) in the Gulf of Cadiz, several hours out, with no sails up, they called us up on the radio for a chat. Left the Azores 10 days ago and their main halyard was jammed, poor buggers. We have just finished dinner thinking they will be lucky to be in for breakfast! Not sure the Nebo log does this trip justice!
Woke to the sound of an unforecast thunderstorm charging through the anchorage at 20kts about 5:30am. One yacht decided to re-anchor. We waited out the storm and headed out into the breach! Long day, what a ride with the swell from hell. Poor Itiki fell off and smacked into more than her fair share of some nasty waves. Very confused sea and the wind didn't really know what it wanted to do either. So nice to be at anchor finally but still blowing high teens. Passed a monohull (Trilogy) in the Gulf of Cadiz, several hours out, with no sails up, they called us up on the radio for a chat. Left the Azores 10 days ago and their main halyard was jammed, poor buggers. We have just finished dinner thinking they will be lucky to be in for breakfast! Not sure the Nebo log does this trip justice!
Lagos to Faro
Toured around the caves and "apostles" in the RIB before a quick trip to the supermarket, and the patisserie of course, before heading to Faro. A relatively short leg today, Nebo log here. Anchored off a beach initially and went for a swim. Tide was ripping through so no letting go of the ladder. Very busy place with lots of jet skis buzzing around. Beautiful sunset and moon rise. Early start tomorrow.
Toured around the caves and "apostles" in the RIB before a quick trip to the supermarket, and the patisserie of course, before heading to Faro. A relatively short leg today, Nebo log here. Anchored off a beach initially and went for a swim. Tide was ripping through so no letting go of the ladder. Very busy place with lots of jet skis buzzing around. Beautiful sunset and moon rise. Early start tomorrow.
Cascais to Lagos
Beautiful morning and enjoyed a SUP around the bay before heading off around midday. This was Keith and my first overnight passage with just the two of us. Slightly nervous but good conditions forecast. Had the parasailor up until sunset and took it down just as the breeze died out. Motored all the way through my watch until 1am, watching the breeze slowly build and we could unfurl the gennaker. Keith was quite busy on his watch keeping the boat moving really well and I woke to find us trucking along and with winds over 20s we furled the gennaker and unfurled a bit of heady. Top speed 15.5kts (not showing on the Nebo log...)
Then decided to go to 2nd reef on the main so had to refurl and head to wind. Quite a swell and to head into and a fair bit of spray but got it done and back on track. Beautiful full moon made things a lot easier. A great experience!
Interesting cliffs around Lagos, reminiscent of the 12 apostles along the great ocean road. Very hot day, and pleased to report that the water here is a lot warmer than on the Atlantic coast!
Beautiful morning and enjoyed a SUP around the bay before heading off around midday. This was Keith and my first overnight passage with just the two of us. Slightly nervous but good conditions forecast. Had the parasailor up until sunset and took it down just as the breeze died out. Motored all the way through my watch until 1am, watching the breeze slowly build and we could unfurl the gennaker. Keith was quite busy on his watch keeping the boat moving really well and I woke to find us trucking along and with winds over 20s we furled the gennaker and unfurled a bit of heady. Top speed 15.5kts (not showing on the Nebo log...)
Then decided to go to 2nd reef on the main so had to refurl and head to wind. Quite a swell and to head into and a fair bit of spray but got it done and back on track. Beautiful full moon made things a lot easier. A great experience!
Interesting cliffs around Lagos, reminiscent of the 12 apostles along the great ocean road. Very hot day, and pleased to report that the water here is a lot warmer than on the Atlantic coast!
Peniche to Cascais
Motoring in the mist again until about 2 hours before our arrival and we could finally unfurl the genny. Expensive marina so 1 night here to get washing and shopping done and tomorrow night at anchor in the adjacent bay. Weather has been kind to us but it would be nice to do a bit more sailing. Here is our Nebo log.
There is a "Fete de mar" on at Cascais and we can hear the traditional music from the marina. Plenty of tourists here and the beaches are packed. Wandered around the town and also a successful supermarket trip (the small things make such a difference). Its a lovely town and the weather is very warm so we stayed 2 nights. Thought about taking the train in to Lisbon, but not for too long. Looks like we have some wind building so good timing to head to Lagos.
Motoring in the mist again until about 2 hours before our arrival and we could finally unfurl the genny. Expensive marina so 1 night here to get washing and shopping done and tomorrow night at anchor in the adjacent bay. Weather has been kind to us but it would be nice to do a bit more sailing. Here is our Nebo log.
There is a "Fete de mar" on at Cascais and we can hear the traditional music from the marina. Plenty of tourists here and the beaches are packed. Wandered around the town and also a successful supermarket trip (the small things make such a difference). Its a lovely town and the weather is very warm so we stayed 2 nights. Thought about taking the train in to Lisbon, but not for too long. Looks like we have some wind building so good timing to head to Lagos.
Sao Martinho do Porto to Ilha da Berlenga and Perniche
Left early to head to the island, not sure if we would be able to anchor or stay the night. Very misty and damp heading across and we were very close before the land emerged less than 100m away. Fantastic location, beautiful clear water, high rocky hills, with coves and caves we explored on the SUPs. Spectacular views from a monastery on the island. We anchored among the mooring bouys used by the tourist boats and considered spending the night, but the locals got sick of us and about 6pm told us to move on. Back out into the mist we go to Perniche, where we anchored in pea soup fog between 2 other yachts. Not so easy to take a transit.... Here is our daily log. Check the blog for more details of our adventure.
Left early to head to the island, not sure if we would be able to anchor or stay the night. Very misty and damp heading across and we were very close before the land emerged less than 100m away. Fantastic location, beautiful clear water, high rocky hills, with coves and caves we explored on the SUPs. Spectacular views from a monastery on the island. We anchored among the mooring bouys used by the tourist boats and considered spending the night, but the locals got sick of us and about 6pm told us to move on. Back out into the mist we go to Perniche, where we anchored in pea soup fog between 2 other yachts. Not so easy to take a transit.... Here is our daily log. Check the blog for more details of our adventure.
Figueira da Foz to Sao Martinho do Porto
Very little breeze again today with only a brief moment of glory when we got the parasailor up for about 15 mins. The dolphins were impressed. We had several pods join us for an extended play around the bows and I got some great footage to edit and post soon. Nebo log here.
This anchorage is a tiny little bay, very shallow so great for a cat. Good holding on sand in 2-3m. The beach was jam packed when we arrived on Sunday with very little bare sand and a lot of bare flesh. Heaps of tents and umbrellas. Tried to find the water police to check in but the office as closed. Beautiful sunset though. Had a relaxing day just chilling out. Found a small supermarket and also a bakery to pick up our daily allowance of Portugese tartes. Went for a SUP around the bay and also checked out the tunnel through the rocks and out to the coast.
Very little breeze again today with only a brief moment of glory when we got the parasailor up for about 15 mins. The dolphins were impressed. We had several pods join us for an extended play around the bows and I got some great footage to edit and post soon. Nebo log here.
This anchorage is a tiny little bay, very shallow so great for a cat. Good holding on sand in 2-3m. The beach was jam packed when we arrived on Sunday with very little bare sand and a lot of bare flesh. Heaps of tents and umbrellas. Tried to find the water police to check in but the office as closed. Beautiful sunset though. Had a relaxing day just chilling out. Found a small supermarket and also a bakery to pick up our daily allowance of Portugese tartes. Went for a SUP around the bay and also checked out the tunnel through the rocks and out to the coast.
Porto to Figueira da Foz
Left PJ in Porto and headed out around 07h30 into 30+knots. Getting the main up with 2 was fun and good practice, threading the batons though the eye of the needle of the flapping lazy jacks. Good sailing for about an hour or so before the breeze died. Did a fair bit of motoring before it kicked in again and we could get the Gennaker up. A few dolphins came to see us, but they don't seem to want to stick around and play. Nebo log here. Some photos of Figueira da Foz below. Separate post on Porto to follow when I have a better internet connection.
The marina at FdF as quite small, not too many spots for cats. We got the Marina Douro at Porto to call ahead for us so at least the were expecting us. E56 per night.
Left PJ in Porto and headed out around 07h30 into 30+knots. Getting the main up with 2 was fun and good practice, threading the batons though the eye of the needle of the flapping lazy jacks. Good sailing for about an hour or so before the breeze died. Did a fair bit of motoring before it kicked in again and we could get the Gennaker up. A few dolphins came to see us, but they don't seem to want to stick around and play. Nebo log here. Some photos of Figueira da Foz below. Separate post on Porto to follow when I have a better internet connection.
The marina at FdF as quite small, not too many spots for cats. We got the Marina Douro at Porto to call ahead for us so at least the were expecting us. E56 per night.
Viana do Castelo to Porto
A very misty morning and no wind so had to motor all the way. Lots of fishing pots to avoid which will explain the zig zags in the course on our Nebo log (no we weren't drunk...)
Porto is quite a large town but divided into 2 distinct parts: Porto on the north side of the ria and Gaia on the south side. Both have their own character. Apparently Portugal got its name from the combination of Porto and Gaia.
You can take the best part of a day to wander around the old town of Porto, plenty of churches, cathedrals, palaces and some good cafes (one Portugese tarte per day is permissible...) and of course beer and tapas.. Rest your legs in the park besides the Palacio do Balso (stock exchange) where there was music and markets when we were there.
Practical stuff: The Marina Douro is on the Gaia side, visitors pontoon along the outer breakwater, which is very effective at stopping wash but sounds like someone wheeling a suitcase on cobble stones. 30% loading for cats but 15% discount for CA or RYA (E172 for 3 nights). The fishing village near the marina has a daily produce market and public laundry if you fancy doing some communal hand washing. The Marina staff were very helpful with tourist information, and organised a free port tasing at Churchills. You can take a taxi to Port Luis I to start your tour of Porto by walking across it, upper or lower level. To get back to the marina there is a tourist tram from the Church of San Francisco. Get off 2-3 stops after the main road bridge and head down to the jetty to catch a small ferry back across to the Gaia side (Afurada village) near the marina. Marina will also organise free transfers to el court inglese the big department store with a mega supermarket in the basement. There were plenty of good, cheap restaurants on in the village too and fresh seafood is a must!
A very misty morning and no wind so had to motor all the way. Lots of fishing pots to avoid which will explain the zig zags in the course on our Nebo log (no we weren't drunk...)
Porto is quite a large town but divided into 2 distinct parts: Porto on the north side of the ria and Gaia on the south side. Both have their own character. Apparently Portugal got its name from the combination of Porto and Gaia.
You can take the best part of a day to wander around the old town of Porto, plenty of churches, cathedrals, palaces and some good cafes (one Portugese tarte per day is permissible...) and of course beer and tapas.. Rest your legs in the park besides the Palacio do Balso (stock exchange) where there was music and markets when we were there.
Practical stuff: The Marina Douro is on the Gaia side, visitors pontoon along the outer breakwater, which is very effective at stopping wash but sounds like someone wheeling a suitcase on cobble stones. 30% loading for cats but 15% discount for CA or RYA (E172 for 3 nights). The fishing village near the marina has a daily produce market and public laundry if you fancy doing some communal hand washing. The Marina staff were very helpful with tourist information, and organised a free port tasing at Churchills. You can take a taxi to Port Luis I to start your tour of Porto by walking across it, upper or lower level. To get back to the marina there is a tourist tram from the Church of San Francisco. Get off 2-3 stops after the main road bridge and head down to the jetty to catch a small ferry back across to the Gaia side (Afurada village) near the marina. Marina will also organise free transfers to el court inglese the big department store with a mega supermarket in the basement. There were plenty of good, cheap restaurants on in the village too and fresh seafood is a must!
Vigo to Viana do Castelo
Gorgeous day, cool on the water and variable breeze. Managed to do a bit of sailing with the Genneker hooked up to the bows to capture the breeze a little better, gave us an extra 1.5kts in the lightish airs. Check out our Nebo log here.
Viana do Castelo was a real gem and a pleasant surprise. The marina is tiny and too small for us so after a quick U-turn we tied up to the "waiting dock" outside, were we stayed for the night with some other larger yachts, overlooking a double decker bridge designed by Gustav Eiffel. Marina staff were very friendly and helpful. The town is in total festival mode with an artisan market, lights and decorations in place and the main street lined with seating, awaiting the big day (Saturday 18th). This is a romaria dedicated to Nossa Senhora da Agonia with floats, dancing, music, carnival giants etc. They were certainly pumping out the music everywhere around the town and the place was clean and neat as a pin. The Santa Lucia Basilica on the hill behind the village dominates the landscape and is the first thing you see as you approach. This town was well worth a visit.
Gorgeous day, cool on the water and variable breeze. Managed to do a bit of sailing with the Genneker hooked up to the bows to capture the breeze a little better, gave us an extra 1.5kts in the lightish airs. Check out our Nebo log here.
Viana do Castelo was a real gem and a pleasant surprise. The marina is tiny and too small for us so after a quick U-turn we tied up to the "waiting dock" outside, were we stayed for the night with some other larger yachts, overlooking a double decker bridge designed by Gustav Eiffel. Marina staff were very friendly and helpful. The town is in total festival mode with an artisan market, lights and decorations in place and the main street lined with seating, awaiting the big day (Saturday 18th). This is a romaria dedicated to Nossa Senhora da Agonia with floats, dancing, music, carnival giants etc. They were certainly pumping out the music everywhere around the town and the place was clean and neat as a pin. The Santa Lucia Basilica on the hill behind the village dominates the landscape and is the first thing you see as you approach. This town was well worth a visit.
Vigo & Bouzas
The main reason for going to Vigo was to get our engines serviced. For warranty purposes this needs to be done between 40-60 hours. The team at Marina Davila were very helpful in coordinating this for us with Ramon at Krug Naval. As our MMSI also came through the day before we were able to get the marina's tech guy to finalise our AIS set up. Not a bad couple of days work really. The marina is a long way out of Vigo and the weather was not great when we arrived. The small town of Bouzas is nearby for stocking up and the Park de Castro on the hill in Vigo gives a great view over the area.
The main reason for going to Vigo was to get our engines serviced. For warranty purposes this needs to be done between 40-60 hours. The team at Marina Davila were very helpful in coordinating this for us with Ramon at Krug Naval. As our MMSI also came through the day before we were able to get the marina's tech guy to finalise our AIS set up. Not a bad couple of days work really. The marina is a long way out of Vigo and the weather was not great when we arrived. The small town of Bouzas is nearby for stocking up and the Park de Castro on the hill in Vigo gives a great view over the area.
Combarro Ensenada de Barra
Long beach, very busy on a Saturday. Clothing is optional. People are either sitting under umbrellas or promenading naked up and down the beach. We put the boxing kangaroo flag up, resulting in a lot of other Aussies dropping by for a chat! One couple had been cruising for 17 years, like us when they started they said it would be 5 years... Water is pretty cool here, I guess we are in the Atlantic. Beautiful sunset but woke to the sound of fog horns in the Ria and a very misty morning.
Long beach, very busy on a Saturday. Clothing is optional. People are either sitting under umbrellas or promenading naked up and down the beach. We put the boxing kangaroo flag up, resulting in a lot of other Aussies dropping by for a chat! One couple had been cruising for 17 years, like us when they started they said it would be 5 years... Water is pretty cool here, I guess we are in the Atlantic. Beautiful sunset but woke to the sound of fog horns in the Ria and a very misty morning.
Ensenada de Muros to Combarro
A relatively long day but the northerly breeze gave us an opportunity to try the parasailor again. This time we tried to launch it with the main up, not a good idea as we could not get it to fill. Then we had the brace on the wrong side (we now have twin sheets and braces). All this messing around put us off course a bit so we took the long way around some islands. Anyway we got here in the end and its a beautiful town, restored very well, lots of restaurants and shops and buzzing with Spanish tourists. Lots of "horreos" occupying prime waterfront real estate, they were previously used for storing grain or potatoes through winter. Now used as sheds or have cafes underneath. There may even be some on AirBnB!
Very shallow bay though which made for some interesting times at dinner...
Check Nebo log here
A relatively long day but the northerly breeze gave us an opportunity to try the parasailor again. This time we tried to launch it with the main up, not a good idea as we could not get it to fill. Then we had the brace on the wrong side (we now have twin sheets and braces). All this messing around put us off course a bit so we took the long way around some islands. Anyway we got here in the end and its a beautiful town, restored very well, lots of restaurants and shops and buzzing with Spanish tourists. Lots of "horreos" occupying prime waterfront real estate, they were previously used for storing grain or potatoes through winter. Now used as sheds or have cafes underneath. There may even be some on AirBnB!
Very shallow bay though which made for some interesting times at dinner...
Check Nebo log here
Ensenada de San Francisco to Ensenada de Muros
Short trip around the point. Anchored in Muros and went ashore, lovely to walk through the narrow streets to see the old churches and plazas.
Check Nebo log here
Short trip around the point. Anchored in Muros and went ashore, lovely to walk through the narrow streets to see the old churches and plazas.
Check Nebo log here
Ensenada de Ares (ES) to Ensenada de San Francisco (ES)
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Comments: Light winds on the nose, fairly flat seas, engines on all the way. Keeping a close eye out for fishing pots as we are inside the <100m depth. Plenty of rain in the afternoon and quite cool so we were pleased to have the full bimini tent. Highlight was rounding Cape Finisterre. Dramatic coastline with plenty of wind turbines, not moving much though. Anchored off the beach at Ensenada de San Francisco (ES). Good holding in sand. Went ashore in the morning to check out the Neolithic petroglyphs on the hill behind the beach.
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Comments: Light winds on the nose, fairly flat seas, engines on all the way. Keeping a close eye out for fishing pots as we are inside the <100m depth. Plenty of rain in the afternoon and quite cool so we were pleased to have the full bimini tent. Highlight was rounding Cape Finisterre. Dramatic coastline with plenty of wind turbines, not moving much though. Anchored off the beach at Ensenada de San Francisco (ES). Good holding in sand. Went ashore in the morning to check out the Neolithic petroglyphs on the hill behind the beach.
Ensenada de Ares
Small bay north of A Coruna, lovely town very busy and lively with locals and Spanish holiday makers. Good alternative to going into A Coruna if you don't want to use a marina.
Small bay north of A Coruna, lovely town very busy and lively with locals and Spanish holiday makers. Good alternative to going into A Coruna if you don't want to use a marina.
La Rochelle FR to A Coruna ES
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A Coruna - Spain
Anchorage: Marina Coruna
Walk up to the Castelo de San Anton which houses an archeological museum. Tour of the old town. Walk (or run!) out to the Tower of Hercules via "stonehenge".
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A Coruna - Spain
Anchorage: Marina Coruna
Walk up to the Castelo de San Anton which houses an archeological museum. Tour of the old town. Walk (or run!) out to the Tower of Hercules via "stonehenge".
