Mystical Melaleuca

Deny King's place at Moth Creek

Mt Rugby

Our final excursion in Port Davey is a visit to Melaleuca, the closest place to civilisation there is in this area. This is where the airstrip is, as well as walkers huts which mark the start/end of the South Cape Track. It rained a lot during the night and we spent the morning on board waiting for the weather to clear. Fortunately very little wind. Finally got away after an early lunch of soup and toasties. Took both RIBs up the Melaleuca Inlet, a winding, tanin stained rivulet, lined with rocks and trees. Stunning scenery, we are on a plateau surrounded by rugged mountains in the middle distance. As we came closer to our destination and once we slowed down the reflections on the water were amazing. The tide is quite low at the moment exposing tree roots and rocks. We pulled up at the dock and left the RIBs to walk around the boardwalk. Seems quite a bit longer than when I was here before, many years ago and there is an example of an aboriginal dwelling here, nobody at home today though... We visited the Deny King memorial museum which hosts an interesting display of local history, including the tin mining era, as well as some home made furniture from Win and Clyde's home. The museum is also a bird hide and the endangered Orange Bellied Parrots are monitored from here. We have seen some on the wing but none are visiting the hide today. Walked along to Deny King's old place on Moth Creek, and (with permission from the family) explored the yard and outbuildings. The fruit trees and netted gardens are still here, as is the old Californian Red Gum (Sequoia) that Deny planted. Deny spent many years of his life living and working in this area and it was clearly in his blood. There are several docks including one lifting dock for a dinghy, like ones we have seen in Bocos del Toro, in Panama. The family still use the home and regularly visit here, usually flying in and landing at the gravel runway that was originally built by Deny.​

---

Amazing reflections in Melaleuca Creek

Deny and his father Charlie (who were originally from the Huon Valley) were mining tin at Melaleuca back in the day, and Winsome (Deny's sister) worked hard alongside them, as well as keeping house and entertaining visitors. We walked across the air strip towards the South Cape track to check out one of the old tin mines but after all the rain, there was way too much water over the road to cross any further, and nobody felt like a swim. 

Captain Sarah returned to collect us in the RIB and with the tide now higher than when we arrived, was very excited to show us the rock reflections on the shore, which do look pretty funky, except I am tired and just want to get back to the boat for a cup of tea. We make an unexpected stop at Clayton’s corner and Zara (our amazing expedition chef) is waiting there so it seems we are in for a lovely surprise! Eddie the kayaker is still here at Win and Clyde’s place in front of the roaring fire. He was impressed that Zara had turned up earlier with a flame thrower and an axe - she was thinking that she might have to chop wood and light a fire! We enjoyed some wine and beef stew that Zara had prepared earlier on Eddie's open fire. So great that the house has been preserved and still used and appreciated by regular visitors. Tough to drag ourselves away.​​

More reflections

The next day is another drizzly morning and after breakfast we chill out, waiting and watching the changing light and passing clouds. Sarah sets up the TV in the saloon and gives us a weather briefing for the return journey. It turns out we have a good window to leave this evening, so sadly this will be our last day in Port Davey. We will head along the south coast overnight to spend the day at Recherche Bay, before making for Hobart the next day.

Homeward Bound

Critchely Parker's Grave

Around noon we are called for lunch and then suddenly it’s time to up anchor. We head back through the narrows, passing Mt Rugby, which so looks like The Marquesas with its towering hills and lush green vegetation. We pass port to port with SV Aboard, the small luxury cruise ship that stays down here for the season, awaiting FIFO guests. After dropping anchor we take a quick trip ashore to Critchley Parkers grave. A small, headstone and stone grave. His story is a sad one, a lone Jewish guy who lost his life scouting for a place to establish the promised land for his people. Spoiler alert: They chose Israel instead...
​

---

Back on board the dinghy is stowed and we are quickly under way again. We head out of the bay to the north of Breaksea Islands and offshore a bit until we can turn left and lay SW Cape. The swell is very mild, barely 1m. We reach SW Cape on sunset and its quite a spectacular one. Once we have turned the corner we have good breeze, the sails are unfurled and we sail pretty much all the way to SE cape, once again going inside of de Witt island. Sadly it's at night so once again we dont see much of the spectacular coastline here. The motion is really lovely and gentle though, much nicer than our passage to Port Davey where we were banging into it. The swell is still very mild and we get an excellent night's sleep. I wake a couple of times and hear the yards and braces on the sails being adjusted. 

Sunset at South West Cape

We reach SE cape at first light and the motors go on again as we turn the corner and head north into Recherche Bay, Anchoring in "Baie du Sud" around 7am. This area has a historical connection to the French explorers, particularly Bruni d'Entrecasteaux and Huon de Kemandec, whose names now grace familiar lands and seas in Southern Tasmania. The French explorers had a much more respectful and congenial relationship with the First Nations peoples of the area than the English colonial fleets that came later. ​

First light rounding SE Cape

Friggin' in The Rigging

Nice view from up there!

For the adventurous amongst us there is an opportunity to climb the rigging! Of course Keith is up for it, whilst I opt for camera duties. The first lesson is how to put the harness on, which requires a PhD in macrame and a good grasp of yoga. Its a free climb up the lower shrouds then clip on before climbing back and outwards via the futtock shrouds to the landing platform before heading out along the yards, to hang out for a while. Great view from up there! 

Recherche Bay

Whilst we have visited this area by road several times, this is the first time by sea. We enjoy a walk ashore along the beautiful white sand beaches. Tomorrow we set sail back up the d'Entrecasteaux and into Hobart.