Magnetic Island: What’s the attraction?

26/9/2025

Magnetic Island

Well we thought that Cape Gloucester would be the furthest north that we would go in ITIKI this season, mindful of a long return journey ahead of us. A conversation with our friends Cheryl and Richie on Serenity Now made us change our minds though, and so glad we did. Magnetic Island, or Maggie as it is affectionately known, is a real gem of a place and well worth a visit.

Horseshoe Beach, Magnetic Island

Magnetic Island is just 8km from Townsville within the UNESCO Great Barrier Reef World Heritage area. Most of the Island’s 5,184ha land area is protected - 78% is National Park and Conservation Park. With 23 stunning beaches and bays, a wide array of wildlife, and a small and friendly residential population of over 2,300. This low key "resort free" island is a favourite with cruisers and even hosts its own Race Week around September each year.

Our route from Airlie to Maggie

It took us 2 long days to make the 132nm from Airlie Beach to Horseshoe Bay on the north side of Magnetic Island, with early starts both days. The first leg from Airlie took us
outside of Gloucester Island to Cape Upstart. It was great to do some sailing under main and gennaker, with a little Volvo assistance at times. Spotted plenty of whales along the way as well, which is always a delight! Cape Upstart is a big anchorage with some shacks ashore, good protection from the south-east trades and a very popular stopover for boats on the way north and south. A little rolly at first but settled during the night and we slept well.

Friendly whale waving!

Cool coastal rock formations, Magnetic Island

An early start the next day as well, with the main up, although we were expecting to motor, with light winds forecast. The forecast was for less than 10kts from any random direction, however we ended up with 15-18 from the south which gave us a good reach once we got past the very long and low Cape Bowling Green, and turned westward towards Maggie. It was quite choppy past the point as its fairly shallow, but we settled in to a rhythm and made good time. A bit overcast when we arrived at Horseshoe bay, there are quite a few boats here, but plenty of space and nicely protected.

Horseshoe Beach

Horseshoe Bay

Took the paddle boards ashore, into the wind, which was hard work as we are quite a way out! Walked along the beach and checked out the “town” which is pretty basic, a couple of tourist shops, a pub and a few restaurants/cafes. What more could you want?! The water is not really clear here and although there is a netted swimming area we are not tempted. Tides are fairly substantial up this way and there was a tri-maran and a Wharrum cat beached on the shore, their owners doing some much needed hull and keel work.

The Forts Walk

Go away, I'm trying to sleep!

We took advantage of Queensland’s 50c bus fares to head uphill to the Forts Junction and tackle the famous Forts Walk. Saw a couple of koalas chillin' out in the trees along the way. It is quite a hike to see the various ruins and lookouts with several side paths and back tracks. Hot and sweaty work so we head down to Florence Bay for a picnic lunch. Lots of steep steps on the way down and as our legs were starting to turn to jelly we thought it might have been a mistake, particularly if we need to go back the same way! Florence Beach is lovely, beautiful white sand and very clean. Not too many people either as most come on foot or by boat. We have a quick dip but there is quite an algal bloom on the water here and a little difficult to avoid the slick. After a picnic lunch and a rest before heading back we manage to get back on our feet. Fortunately we can return on a gently sloping road up to Forts Junction, but even so it is slow going. Made it to the bus stop and just as we did a couple of locals stopped in their car and offered us a lift back! What a lovely gesture and very welcome!

Pier at Picnic Bay

Alma Bay to Picnic Bay

Where do I start?!

Back on the 50c buses again this morning (no expense spared!) First stop at Alma Bay. There is a lovely beach here which has life savers, grassed BBQ and picnic area. This must be the main tourist beach as it was quite busy. We spy an older couple who are having a picnic with a table cloth and wine in glasses! Very civilised! Why didn’t we think of that.

We enjoy a swim here as the water is lovely and clean, then its 2kms walk to Nelly Bay where the ferry wharf and IGA are located. Stopped for lunch at SOS seafoods and some ordinary barra and an average glass of wine, before getting back onto the bus to Picnic Bay. This is the end of the line and there is not much here at all. The beach is unpatrolled and there is an old, long, disused jetty in the middle. Some kids are having a bit of a carnival at the SLSC but none seem too keen to go in the water. We walk along the foreshore, past the signs announcing a recent croc sighting, and then succumb to the temptation of the local craft Brewery where we have a “tasting board” before heading back to Horseshoe Bay on the bus. As we have a little time to kill on board the bus before departure, the driver treats us to several verses of “The wheels on the bus…” complete with actions, including horn going beep, beep, beep and wipers going woosh, woosh, woosh. Hilarious!

After a couple of full-on days we make the most of some rainy weather to stay on board, rest & recover, bake, eat, drink and repeat – and of course a few boat jobs.

Radical Bay

Radical & Balding Bays

Our legs have stopped wobbling so we tackle the (much shorter) walk from Horseshoe beach to Radical Bay and Balding Bay. There are several strategically placed warning signs along the way announcing that Balding Bay is a nudist beach. Both are really lovely beaches, with beautiful white sand, crystal clear water and lined with spectacular boulder formations. We saw one yacht anchored at Balding bay, although they came over to Horseshoe for the evening, so we decided to come over in ITIKI tomorrow. We had dinner ashore at Barefoot wine bar, lovely meal, and met some fellow Tasmanians.

ITIKI at Radical Bay

Brahminy Kite

As planned, the next day we took ITIKI around to Radical Bay after breakfast. Went ashore and had a walk and swim, so good. A great day relaxing, watching the comings and goings of humans and birds.

Sadly it ended up being a radically rolly anchorage overnight, which explains why boats only come around here for the day, so we woke in the wee hours and ended up leaving at 3am! Got to Cape Upstart just after lunch, mostly motor sailed. Keith went up the mast when we got there to sort out a halyard, and spotted a Dugong between us and the shore. What a treat! We motored back to Airlie the next day, having thoroughly enjoyed a “side trip” to Maggie.